How I Spent My Summer Vacation…

Back from field camp, I had a day and a half to unpack, do laundry (meaning, take it to the cleaners), and repack before taking the Lufthansa flight out of Dammam and on my way to Colorado. There’s no doubt that Lufthansa provides the most direct and quickest connections for me to get to Colorado – Dammam direct to Frankfurt, and Frankfurt direct to Denver. Business class (and the Frankfurt business lounge) made the door-to-door 30-hour journey bearable.

It was certainly a strange feeling renting a car at the Denver airport. Inasmuch as Colorado was my home base for 25 years, I had never done such a thing! Furthermore, since I no longer have a house in Boulder, I secured an Airbnb for at least part of my time while I was “home”. It was a convenient, if Spartan, condo in northeast Boulder from which I was able to get around the Denver metro area, visit my stuff in my storage unit, eat at some of my favorite places, see family and friends, and get out to do some fishing (really the reason I went to the storage unit not just to visit my things, but to pick up my fishing gear).

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At Coors Field with Jack. Rockies win!!

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South Boulder Creek near Rollinsville.

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A South Boulder Creek rainbow trout.

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Kara’s excited with her feisty brown trout from South Boulder Creek.

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The famous (to anglers, anyway) Frying Pan River near Basalt, Colorado.

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A torpedo brown trout from the Frying Pan.

After a good dose of Colorado mountain air and water, I hopped on a plane to Laguardia and headed to Connecticut to visit with my college friends. A group of us have a great tradition of getting together every five years to attempt to relive our past glory as miscreants at University of Vermont many years ago, retell stories that just never get old, and eat and drink and laugh until it hurts. I’m so glad the timing worked out for me to do this!

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Joel’s place in Connecticut.

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Look at us, all growed up…

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Flight path out of  Laguardia took us right over the city, with a great view of Central Park and lower Manhattan.

I was then back in Colorado for about a day and a half, before catching an early morning flight to Dallas, TX. Daughter Rebeca is now a Dallas resident, and working for Southwest Airlines at their corporate offices at Love Field as a technical writer. As part of her compensation package, she gets to fly standby free to anywhere Southwest services. Not only that, but her parents can also fly standby free (called non-revenue travel). So, we made plans for me to visit for a day (plus overnight) if I could get on standby, which I did.

It tickles me to no end that Rebeca is living in Dallas – I lived there for five years (1986-91), when I was on the faculty at University of Texas at Dallas. I hadn’t been back to Dallas in about 20 years. So much has changed! I even got to go visit UTD while Rebeca was a work and had lunch with a former colleague there, Bob Stern. I didn’t recognize campus at all, and the drive up to Richardson from downtown Dallas was completely different to me.

Some things are still the same, however, and Rebeca and I spent time looking at a couple of the places where I had lived, and going to my favorite Tex-Mex restaurant, the Blue Goose Cantina on Lower Greenville. There I had my usual incredible plate of sour cream chicken enchiladas, along with a couple of frozen margaritas – just like the old days with the likes of Tod, Hadj, Tad, Dr. Rick, Big Dog, etc. My friend and former Mines student Sherif lives nearby Lower Greenville, so I called him up and he joined us at the Blue Goose, before going over to one of my other former haunts, the Winedale Tavern (although it’s not called that anymore, it’s still the same ol’ dive bar that it always was).  Rebeca earlier had also introduced me to a new hangout in the Lower Greenville area called the Truck Yard. This very cool place is a combination food truck park and watering hole that feels very Austin-esque, and not at all glitzy like Dallas is wont to be.

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The Truck Yard.

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Rebeca sharing my Dallas glory days with me at the Goose, with a plate of sour cream chicken enchiladas and a tasty frozen marg.

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Sorry it’s a little dark, but that’s me and Sherif at the dive bar formerly known as the Winedale Tavern.

After the great fun visit with Rebeca, I flew back to Colorado the next morning. I think I got the last standby seat on the flight, but I made it regardless. And, wouldn’t you know it, I was only back in Colorado for another day and a half before getting on yet another flight. This time to Portland, Oregon, to visit my mother and my brother and his wife.

Portland is typically gorgeous in the summertime, with sunny skies all day every day, and nice warm temperatures. The morning I left Dallas was about as cool (and rainy) as Dallas ever gets on the first of August, and Colorado was remarkably cool for the beginning of August also. Not so much with Portland! There were heat advisories and temperatures were forecast to be in the 104°F (40°C) range.  That’s highly uncommon for the Pacific northwest. Compounding the heat was that nearby wild/forest fires in Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia, had spread smoke over the western side of the Cascades, and Portland was blanketed by the thick smoke.

We had sort of a small family reunion at Neil’s place, as Jack flew out from Colorado and Rebeca hopped a flight from Dallas for the weekend. Much good food and good Oregon beer was consumed at Neil’s and in and around Portland, before heading out to the Oregon coast for two days with Kara to escape the heat and smoke.

Oregon has a beautiful rocky coast consisting mostly of oceanic basalts (it’s not too difficult to find beautiful MOR pillow basalts), along with volcaniclastics and turbidites. Overall, it’s an active continental margin, with the Juan de Fuca plate subducting below the North American plate, creating the Coast Ranges and the Cascade magmatic arc. One day, the Portland-Seattle-Vancouver area will experience a catastrophic earthquake and I truly hope the people there are prepared. To their credit, in many areas along the coast, there are abundant tsunami warning signs and evacuation areas. I don’t want to be a downer or anything, it’s just geological reality that goes along with an active oceanic-continental subduction margin. Regardless, it certainly is purty…

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Brother Neil at Breakside Brewery, one of many brewpubs in beer-crazy Portland.

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My mother with granddaughter Rebeca in an action shot of mom doing what she does best, this time at a fantastic ramen house in the west hills of Portland.

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With the kids in Neil’s lush back yard. I note that Jack’s wearing my summer 1995 Grateful Dead tour shirt that I got in Vegas, the final time I saw Jerry Garcia.

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Jack gingerly (get it) holding the Paul Reed Smith guitar signed by the members of Widespread Panic that Kelly won at auction. With the twist being that Kelly got Paul to donate the guitar to the band for auction, and then ended up buying it herself!

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Partial aftermath of a great dinner at Olympia Oyster Bar. I simply love those PNW oysters!

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A window display at Paxton Gate, a store featuring natural mounted specimens, taxidermy, fossils, minerals, and other wonders. It happened to be right next to Olympia Oyster Bar where we had dinner one night. Interesting place…

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Horsetails (sphenopsids) and seed ferns along the Oregon coast, mimicking a Devonian forest (except for the obvious angiosperms scattered throughout).

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Typical day along the coast, with this day thankfully 20°F cooler than Portland.

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That dark spot in the water is the tail of a grey whale that surfaced several times. I had never before seen a whale!! Like in my whole life! So, kind of a big deal.

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The Oregon coast is known for these “haystacks”, isolated erosional basalt remnants of the former coastline.

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The haystacks attract a wide array of sea birds. Didn’t get to see a puffin, however.

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Tidal pool with abundant anemones, mussels, and barnacles.

So… That’s what I did on my summer vacation. From Oregon, I flew back to Colorado for another day and a half stay, and then flew back to the Kingdom on the return flights through Frankfurt and into Dammam.

On a sad note, I had to say goodbye to a good friend. Darlene was a beautiful and sweet greyhound who had nearly reached 12 years old and had contracted an aggressive bone cancer. The one and only DogFish will be greatly missed.

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Did you say “ham”?!? RIP DogFish.

Field Camp 2017

For geology students who haven’t yet experienced it, the mystique of field camp is real. Time leading up to summer field camp is anxiety filled. You’re told various horror stories from students who have recently completed it… “It’s brutal.” “I never knew what I was doing.” “Don’t give up, you’ll make it.” “The instructors are dicks.” And so on. As instructors, we always say that field camp is, “the best time you’ll ever hate.” You have to amass supplies from some draconian list given to you by the professors. You have to give up summer employment. You need to say goodbye to your family and friends and the creature comforts of home.

To be sure, field camp is a rite of passage for geology students.

The majority of study leading up to it is comprised of lectures and labs and, hopefully, scattered field exercises here and there in Physical Geology, Sedimentology and Stratigraphy, and Structural Geology. Whatever the course name is (Field Camp, Geological Field Study, Field Geology, etc.), everyone knows what it is: six semester hours of intensive fieldwork. Usually following the junior year, field camp is a culmination and integration of all classroom study that had come before. The Earth is our laboratory and the only way to really “become a geologist” is to get out in the field and suffer the oftentimes hell that is field camp.

Six semester hours is a rip-off, right? Fieldwork time while it’s light and nightly work time usually is 40 to 60 hours per week for six weeks. Huh, that’s pretty stout, considering that a 3-credit course is 45 contact hours for an entire semester.

While the fear of the unknown is palpable going into it (what? six weeks of immersive geology, commonly in uncomfortable conditions), the reward on the other side of it is typically incomparable. You survived geology boot camp! You’re in the club! You’re truly a geologist!

I had my own trepidation going into this field session. Not so much because of new geology (I revel in seeing new geology!), but mostly because of the weather that we would have to work with. Who does fieldwork in Saudi Arabia in July? Surely only idiots.

My years of field camp with CSM consisted of leading a week (this is how we do it Fifth Week!!) in the Molas Lake area of the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado. Weather there, in mid- to late June, camping at 10,500’ (3200 m), ran the gamut from single-digit temperatures (Fahrenheit, minus 5°C) at night, to low- mid-70s (20s C) during the day, and oftentimes encountering rain, sleet, snow, graupel, hail, lightning, intense sunshine, and radiative cooling at night. The prospect of fieldwork in the Kingdom in July meant searing sunshine, temperatures in the 40s to low 50s C (115°ish F) every day, and only cooling off to the upper 30s at night. No matter, we’re f*cking geologists and this is what we do…

June in the San Juan Mountains. This is how we did it fifth week!!

Unfortunately, for me, I had already made my summer “repatriation” plans to be back in the US, so I wasn’t able to spend the whole time in the field with my students and colleagues. However, the two weeks I was able to spend with them was simply wonderful.

The field site is in northwest Saudi Arabia, tucked up against the Gulf of Aqaba, and in sight of the Sinai peninsula and Egypt. We flew domestically on Saudia Airlines from Dammam to Tabuk. Our Land Cruisers had been delivered to Tabuk earlier in the week, so Khalid and I grabbed a taxi, picked up the vehicles, loaded up the students, did some grocery shopping, and headed to Maqna. The Gulf of Aqaba is a left-lateral shear zone that’s still active (didn’t get to experience an earthquake, dang), and separating the Sinai from the Arabian shield. 700 to 800 meter high mountains plunge into the Gulf, where depths range up to 1500 meters, with little to no continental shelf. Where the wadis empty coarse siliciclastics into the Gulf, there’s essentially no shelf at all – inter-wadi areas have thriving reefs and carbonate sedimentation. There’s no better place to see sediment reciprocity in action.

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Northern end of the Red Sea, Sinai, Nile delta, and location of Tabuk in NW Saudi Arabia.

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Gulf of Aqaba to Tabuk.

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Approximate field study area. We stayed in Maqna, and Al Badh was the closest larger town.

It’s hard to emote the joy and enrichment that I experienced during my time in the field. The geology was ridiculously good and fascinating. It helps when there’s no vegetation in the way – not like mapping in the glacial-till-covered forested wilds of Vermont, or the Enchanted Forest at Molas. Not at all. I call it “slap you in the face geology” because, seriously, if you don’t get this, you’re in the wrong profession/line of study.

Working for KFUPM dictates that things will be different from other universities. We’re well funded and we were fortunately able to buy field equipment for the students, stay in comfortable, if Spartan, apartments, and have a cook for all our meals. Abu Mohammed was integral to our field experience. We typically had breakfast well before the sun was up, to beat the heat, so Mohammed was up even earlier, laying out the breakfast staples and (usually) cooking something to get our day started.

We got in the vehicles at 5:00 or 5:30 in the morning, so we could get to our field sites as the sun was coming up. Because of the heat, we were typically off the outcrop by 10:30 AM or so, more than ready to head back to the apartments for some cowering downtime in air conditioning, and to get cleaned up and ready for absolutely the best meal of the day. We headed back to the field around 3:30 in the afternoon, well after the peak heat, and would work until sundown. Without elaborating, the heat just sucks the life out of you – we worked the field, drank lots of water, slept hard when we could, and recharged with Abu Mohammed’s meals.

We worked with everything from Neoproterozoic intrusives, to Recent carbonate reef sediments, but mostly we were in the Early Miocene sedimentary cover. That won’t mean much to many, but just know we had awesome geology to work with. Without boring you more, I’ll just upload a bunch of pictures, with a little commentary in the captions.

Arrival in Tabuk with a traditional lunch – before and after!

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After several field stops along the way from Tabuk to Maqna, this sunset vista over the Gulf of Aqaba greeted our arrival to our accommodations.

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First recon day to the field area, with evaporites to the upper left. The Precambrian is in the far right background, in fault contact with continental redbeds and turbidites in the nearer background.

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A typical gourmet field lunch from Abu Mohammed. This sustained us daily in the field grind, and lunch was our biggest meal in the day. Like every lunch, this one started with soup – all other soup makers should bow in the presence of Mohammed. Each day’s soup was better than the last. Also here are roasted chickens, basmati rice, salsa, okra ratatouille, and fresh fruit for dessert.

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You want structure? Yeah, we have structure. This recumbent fold in Miocene carbonates was generated from shearing along the Gulf of Aqaba.

This Land Cruiser is “John’s car.” I’ve put about 95% of the kms on this beast since April, and this was my field vehicle for the duration. The right photo shows “John’s dent.” I hope it’s not coming out of my paycheck. This christening happened during a wadi crossing along the mountain front in the left photo.

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Ever wonder what the inside of a pediment looks like? Coarse clastics with obvious channel features were exposed by a wadi cut through a large pediment dipping from the mountains to the east toward the Gulf.

Views in and around Haql, a town on the Jordanian border.

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World-class healthy reefs in the northern Gulf of Aqaba at Haql. This was off our back doorstep from our accommodations in town!

Proof I was there.

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The dreaded camel spider. This was in my freaking bathroom. Khalid stepped on it and all the black stuff came spewing out. My boot toe for scale.

If you thought Saudi Arabia was all sand dunes, you’ve been mistaken. I’ve been pleasantly blown away by the geology of the Kingdom.

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A WWII Catalina seaplane that apparently missed the sea…

Our curious animal friends.

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Our accommodations in Maqna – early morning, gearing up for a warm day in the field.

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Al Badh had some Petra-like ruins.

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Patagonia Arabia…

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Our last night together before I left the field was spend at a resort in Sharma. The crew arranged this lovely cake for me. Thenks!! But seriously, I loved my time in the field with my colleagues and students and hope that you’ve enjoyed this sample of my photos.